Say what?

Well, what do you know... there was a presidential election in Ireland yesterday! And I had no clue.

I suppose you could say that this fact speaks volumes about my civic engagement and interest in my new home. I would argue, though, that it has much more to do with my consumption of Irish media (or lack thereof).

First, we have no television. We haven’t owned one since Hurricane Katrina wiped out ours 6 years ago. No radio, either.

I tried reading the newspaper a few times since I arrived last month, but never made it far, finding the news to be incomprehensible or astoundingly provincial. Instead, I have been relying on the NPR website for my news (in my defense, I have been making a special effort to read the stories about the Euro-zone bailout. But it’s just so bo-o-o-ring).

The election was there on the periphery of my consciousness. We’ve seen signs, and I’ve read the odd headline, but was all so low-key that I had no idea the election was near. After all, in the U.S., on the day of the election stores would be loudly proclaiming their Election Day Sales; the McDonald’s would probably be selling Big Macs festooned with little American flags; no one would get any work done because they’d be glued to the web, refreshing the page every minute to see the changing vote counts and colourful state maps. Here, it was just a normal day like any other, apart from the fact that people went into their polling station (or whatever it is they do here) and turned in their ballot.

Now, don’t ask me who is actually president, my interest in the subject hasn’t extended so far as for me to actually find out. I’m told it’s the balding little man with wild, white hair fringing his head. I think it’s the guy that Jorge thinks looks like a Princess Bride character. Maybe I'll go online and look it up.

Or maybe I'll check Facebook instead. Lunch hour is only so long, you know.

Quiet now

I just thought I would pop on and let you all know that things have settled down here in Malawi, at least for now. After two days at home I got incredibly stir-crazy, and convinced my office to let me go out to the field on Friday, and it was as calm as you could ever imagine. All the supposed damage to the city center had never happened, and while everyone seemed a little more tense than usual, I never felt in any danger. So it seems that at least some of the news reports were overblown. Never again will I turn to twitter for news!

What is clear, though, is that 18 people lost their lives during the two days of unrest, and that is a horrible, shocking tragedy. Lots of fingers have been pointed, but no one has taken any responsibility. In the cities, at least, the protests seem to have had the effect that people are even more frustrated now.

In the meantime, things have gotten back to normal. Which means no fuel at the filling stations, regular black-outs, and high prices on everything from tomatoes to tires.

For us, we are just looking forward to the arrival of my dad tomorrow, who is coming for a two-week visit. And then beyond that, trying to figure out where we go now, as it looks like we have officially, finally, and somewhat reluctantly decided that I will leave my current job at the end of this year. We have been here five years, and given all the difficulties of life lately, and all the friends who have already left before us, it is finally starting to feel like enough.

Day of Protest

I have lived in Malawi for 5 year now, and not once have I ever known the people to rise up in angry protest. Sure, there are editorials written, the occasional march held, but generally Malawians have always seemed a peaceful lot. They take pride in the fact that Malawi, a rarity in sub-Saharan Africa, has never experienced true violent conflict.

So when I was told by the organization that I work for that all transportation within the country would be suspended today, due to planned protests over the ongoing fuel crisis and other governance issues, I was a little skeptical.

It all seemed like a big over-reaction. A coworker stopped by my desk yesterday to make sure I knew to be careful getting to and from work. “It might be quieter where you are, because of the presidential house being there,” he speculated (I live across the street from a guest house where dignitaries are housed during official visits). “But then again, that might be where they launch the counter-attack.”

Excuse me?! Counter-attack? Those are words I never thought I would hear in Malawi.

Still, I wasn’t really concerned. After all, I was told to stay home on the day of the presidential election as well (I didn’t), and that ended up being the quietest, most peaceful day I have ever experienced in Africa.

But today feels different.

I happen to also live very close to a police station. When I got up this morning, I could hear them practicing - the occasional test message over a bullhorn, short blasts of sirens punctuating the usual morning calm. It was like they were just warming up for the mayhem to come.

I arrived at the office; still more quiet. But people seem on edge. There is a constant background chatter of radios quietly tuned to the news, and when I go in to the staff break room, people look up at me as if I have interrupted some important discussion. Everything is closed in town, and all the usual meetings and work trips postponed. Many of my co-workers just stayed home, and other organizations didn’t even bother opening.

Occasionally I ask for updates – a government office has been burned in Mzuzu, I’m told; the streets around the market are chaos, tear gas has been released. I made my first-ever foray to Twitter today, looking for news, and was surprised to hear numerous reports of looting and fires, although not violence, thank goodness. It’s hard to sort out the facts from the rumors. But what seems to be clear is that some important corner has been turned here in Malawi.

Most likely things will return to business as usual tomorrow, as the damage is assessed and people get back to their usual lives of just trying to survive in a country where there are few jobs, and wages are low, but costs are high. But the seed has been planted. People will wake up, remember that they took the chance to speak out, that they raised their voices against the problems they have seen, and realize that the world did not fall apart. And just maybe they’ll decide to do it again. We’ll see.

Doh.

When I have nothing to blog about, the local newspaper always gives me plenty of material. I've been storing up some shocking headlines, lately, but here's a recent story that gave me hope, then made me chuckle, and then made me sad.

The headline read: "Opposition Leader Refuses Government Car"

My first thought was - "well, gee, isn't that something! An African leader denying expensive, unnecessary benefits, to save money for the people!" I seriously thought that the opposition was trying to make a statement about the misuse of public funds on things like expensive Mercedes Benz cars for high-level politicians.

Then I read further, and this is what I learned instead:

"He says the car is too old."

::Sigh::

Yes, you saw my naievete right away, didn't you? He didn't refuse the car on the grounds that it was a waste of money. He refused it because it wasn't expensive enough. I mean, how could he be seen driving around in a 2005 vehicle?!

Sometimes you just start to feel things are never going to change.

Thy people doth protest too much!

One of the things we have found interesting in Argentina is the total culture of protest. There seems to be a march, or a protest, or a rally, or just random people chanting everywhere we go. On our second day in Buenos Aires, we went down to the city center and visited the building that is the seat of the national government. In front is a famous square where many protests and rallies have been held over the last century. I took one look around and said ¨they must have had one heck of a protest here yesterday,¨because of all the trash and flyers scattered all over the square. What was particularly striking was that there were many, many empty trash cans in the park, but apparently, rather than walk 15 feet, everyone seems to have tossed their soda bottles on the ground instead.

We walked further into the city and noticed that all the turn-of-the century buildings were covered in graffiti with political slogans. I go tthe strong sense that the point of protest was as an excuse for hooliganism, not to actually improve conditions in the country. It left a very bad impression for both of us.

Then, the other day, we were watching the news. Three young men in their twenties had had sex with a 14-year old girl, videotaped it, and were scummy enough to show it around. Fortunately, they have been arrested and will face charges of statutory rape, and possibly child pornography as well.

And what was the response from the community? Why a protest, naturally. But not for who you think - it was a rally of women protesting for the release of the three men. Yes, they were marching to show their indignation at the arrest of three scumbags who had broken the law. Their reason? Because the girl was known to be promiscuous. I can only imagine how horrible it must be for the poor young woman and her family, having to see her community on the news, marching through the streets, no doubt chanting something classy like ¨Let them go, she´s a ho.¨ It goes to show just how far things still need to move for women in the country, I suppose.

Personally, I think they should all pack up their banners, put away their spray paint, and do something that will really make a difference - go to work, perhaps? Vote? Throw away your trash in a grabage can, even?

I know, I know

So I have had several complaints about my lack of blogging of late. Honestly, I just don't have the time these days. In the last month I spent a week in Dowa district, 3 days in our Lilongwe project office, traveled up to Nkhotakota, and am now spending a week in Blantyre. In between that I thre a going-away dinner for a friend (meaning my whole weekend was taken up with cooking, and am still trying to occasionally spend time with my son and husband. I'm wiped out.

Also, to add to the bad news - our bank changed it's ATM cards. While some ATMs still took the old card in Lilongwe, the central bank here in Blantyre doesn't. So I can't get money, and I'm running low. I'm planning to take a looooong walk to another ATM after leaving this internet cafe, I sure hope they take the cards there, otherwise I am screwed.

Interesting morning though - I had breakfast with two majors from the Zimbabwe army! How many people do you know who can say that? There is a whole contingent of officers staying at my hotel - they are studing at the military college in Zimbabwe and are doing a study tour in Malawi. One of the men tried to bait me into a discussion of U.S. foreign policy, but I wasn't going for it, and switched the topic to their own country. It was interesting to hear their perspective on the situation in Zimbabwe (which they assured me is really fine now. I remain skeptical) and their thoughts in Malawi.

And then the Major asked me out dancing . That hasn't happened in a long time. I told him I am too old and too married for the nightclub scene (not exactly true, but I've always found that the modest, prudish response is usually the most effective in deterring would-be African suitors. As in "Excure me, but in MY country, men just don't talk to women like that!" Hahaha.)

Well, I'm running low on cash, so I guess I best start walking now.

Last day on the job

Today is my last day at work in my current position. It's been a bit more rushed than I wanted as I had to stay home with Milo this morning until the babysitter could make it. But, all things considered, I'm pretty much ready to wrap up. I think I will actually leave the office on time today, which will be a first. Usually on my last day of work I am in the office until 8 at night, trying to get all my files backed up and cleaned off. That stuff's all done already - I just need to sit down with the woman covering for me and go over a few things, then I am outta here!

I have really enjoyed my job, and love the team that I work with - they're hard-working, creative, and take inititative for theri own tasks. I'm going to really miss the cooperative team spirit that we've built up over the last 3 years. But I feel I have done what I came to do - build the capacity of the team and get things moving so that they no longer need an international staff person helping out. Working myself out of a job, one position at a time...the aid worker's creed.

The last couple of days in Malawi have been interesting. It's been so calm, so civilized - not at all what you'd expect if you've been listening to the BBC airing condemnations of the election by the opposition candidate, John Tembo. Here in Lilongwe, everyone has accepted the election results very peacefully, and no one seems to doubt the fairness of the voting.

For the last few days, the radios all over the country have been on constantly, the monotonous drone of polling station results announced hour after hour. And now it's over - I've just listened to President Bingu's inauguration speech; he's already been sworn in, even though the polls just closed three days ago! Today I've seen a lot of people in Bingu chitenjes, or wearing t-shirts and buttons with the president's face emblazoned across the front. People seem to be more relaxed, and they are justifiably proud of their little country for pulling off a peaceful, seemingly fair, mostly harmonious election - that's about the extent of the excitement, though.

As for me, I'll relax once I'm resting at my brother-in-law's house in New Orleans, still more than a week away!

Voterani!

It's voting day in Malawi! I've never seen Lilongwe quite so quiet - there are so few cars out on the road. It seems everyone is being very cautious, going to "voterani" then going straight home.

I ignored the advice of my office, and did not stay home today. Jorge and I went to the local polling station, where we asked for permission to take a few photos. After establishing that we were not media, official observers, or rabble-rousers, they said yes. I didn't stay long, as I didn't want to make people uncomfortable - after all, most African countries have had at least some experience with voter harassment. But here are some pictures from today's election:

The Polling Station

People waiting in line to vote
The man at the first table is being checked to make sure his identification matches the voter rolls. The woman at the second table is having her fingers dipped in ink to make sure she can't vote more than once.

Inky fingers and a voter registration card

Making his mark

Casting her ballot

Election Fever

As if it wasn’t bad enough being in the US during the whole Democratic Primary maelstrom, I returned to Malawi just in time for election season here.

Elections are next week on Tuesday, and everyone is a little on edge. Of course, when you ask, everyone says they think things will be fine, calm. But there’s a touchiness to everything right now. On my way to work, a man started laying on his horn less than a second after the light turned green. As I tried to get out of my car, another wacko starts beating on the trunk…Jorge asked me today if we should take our money out of the bank, just in case things break down and we need to bribe people.

My office has issued a memo saying Tuesday will be a working day like any other. Still, I plan to work from home, as do my other colleagues with laptops, just to avoid potential traffic snarls related to rallies and marches (crusades, they call them here). It’s not election day that’s worrisome, really – it’s 2 or 3 days later, when the results are announced that I’m a bit tense about.

Most people in the city here are calling it for Bingu, the current president, but ever since the two opposition parties joined ranks, the incumbent's victory is not such a sure thing. If the election is very close, or large amounts of people disagree with the outcome, then there’s the potential for problems. Most Malawians I know think of themselves as very peaceful, non-violent people, but the violence following the Kenyan elections 2 years ago really shook them up, as it planted those fears that the same thing could happen here. I sure hope it doesn’t.

For Miriam, part 2

I wrote my second letter to President Obama today. And I was MAD.

His education plan is going ahead with his proposal to link teacher pay to "student achievement" (read: standardized test scores). Instead of rolling back the disastrous No Child Left Behind act, this would strengthen it. Great, less than 2 months in office and he's already caving to the right-wing. It's Clinton all over again.

When are people going to put blame for poor student performance where it belongs? On parents. I'm sorry if you disagree with me, but do the research and you'll find that parental education and involvement are the single-most important predictors of student achievement. Sure, exceptions abound, but what it comes down to this: teachers can only do so much with what they are given.

Linking teacher pay with test scores will have the effect of punishing teachers in poor areas, where children tend to have so many more challenges at home. It will drive the good teachers out to the suburbs, leaving the underqualified teachers in the low-performing schools, further driving down test scores.

And here I thought our president was an intelligent man...

Anyway, here's my latest missive to the Big Chief:

Dear Mr. President,

I read in the New York TImes today of your plans to overhaul the education system in the United States. While I still hold the traditional belief that education policy should come from the states, not the federal government, I do agree that change is needed. However, I do not believe that your plans, which strike me as "Republican-Lite" are the answer. In particular, I am horrified at your suggestion of linking teacher pay with student achievement.

As a college student, I worked in the US Department of Education compiling pertinent education research for Congress. Over and over, I watched as important studies showing parental involvement as the greatest predictor of student achievement were passed over in favor of studies supporting "standards and accountability" - because that's what policy makers wanted, not what the research supported. The scramble to adopt accountability policies, despite very mixed research, was group-think at its most obscene, and I left the USED in disgust.

My sister is a teacher. My aunt, grandmother, great-grandmother, and great-great grandmother were all committed, caring teachers. My sister works about 60 hours each week teaching, grading papers, directing the school play, and repersenting her district in the teachers' union. She is an excellent, devoted teacher, and any student would be lucky to be in her class.

However, students are only in school 900 hours each year, compared to the 7,800 hours children spend at home with their families. Where do you think the real blame for low performance lies? My sister gets several children in her class every year who just arrived in the US and do not speak English. Some of her students have parents who are completely uninvolved, or incarcerated. Your plan to link teacher pay with student achievement will punish her for teaching the students who need her the most, and will reward those teachers who have fled to the richer, better supported suburbs.

What our teachers need is not more punishment, but more support. They need to be allowed to do what they have been taught to do: TEACH, not run reading and math drills all day long in some perverse standardized-testing boot camp.

I am extremely disappointed in you, and honestly believed you had more support for our country's teachers, who I believe are the hardest-working, least appreciated employees in civil service. I hope you will go back to the drawing board and find a way to overhaul (or scrap) the NCLB act in a way that will actually promote good teaching, not hinder it.

With regards,
Gwyneth

Politics as usual

It seems remiss of me that I haven't written about Malawi's upcoming elections yet. After all, in most African countries, democracy is a fledgling baby, and elections are so much more exciting and dramatic than the buttoned-down, gossipy, rather prudish campaign seasons we have in the U.S.

Partly, the problem is mine. I don't read the paper that often, and when I do, I tend to get sidetracked by stories of witchcraft and dismemberment. But I decided to do a bit of research after my husband dropped this little bomb a few weeks ago:

"Hey, can you believe that I only just today realized that the Vice President is still under house arrest?"

My friends and I looked at each other with dawning recognition...Ah, yes, we remembered! The VP being arrested all the way back in 2006, for treason, no less! Was he really still sitting around in his house, and still acting as the second in command? Could life really be that bizarre and surreal?

Well, yes, and yes.

You see, Malawian politics are full of backstabbing and treachery, the stuff of thrillers, and it's presented in the news (if it makes it into the press at all) as if nothing were out of the norm. Here's a quick cliff's notes version for you folks out there across the sea:

There are two main contenders for the presidency, which will be decided by a national vote on May 16th. The first is the incumbent president, Bingi wa Mutharika. The second is the previous president (from 1994 to 2004), Bakili Muluzi, who had chosen Bingu as his successor. Upon ascending to office, President Mutharika promptly formed a new political party, "crossed the floor," and broke ties with Muluzi. So Muluzi has made it his personal mission to take his old job back.

And that's not all. Last year, the constitutionality of Muluzi's bid for presidency was questioned (after all, he's already met his two-term limit). Somehow, he seems to have been allowed to run. Then a few weeks ago Muluzi was arrested for corruption. The current administration claims that the sudden arrest, despite the fact that Muluzi could have been arrested any time in the last few years, is not politically motivated. But the timing, just months before the election, is suspect. Ah, the intrigue!

Things are starting to heat up in anticipation of the vote in May. The embassy are reportedly a little tetchy and worried, but no one has any plans to close down or go anywhere. We're all hoping for an honest, peaceful election. I guess I'll just have to keep you posted!

Me: Squeaky Wheel

Today I was checking the headlines on the New York Times website, and read about the efforts to find a new Health and Human Services Secretary, and an overwhelming urge to be heard just hit me.

So I googled: "write the president"

And what do you know? The White House has a simple, easy web form where you can send a message to the president! It's right here, go try it! Flex your civic muscles! It feels good.

I won't bore you with the text of my letter (which was a dazzling piece of political wit, naturally), but it was basically about how cancer survivors like me are essentially barred from getting health insurance unless we have an employer generous enough to provide us with it. And then once we do get insurance, it won't cover the cancer, a 'pre-existing condition' for a full year (which is a really long time when you have cancer. Trust me.) Even when we've been healthy for years. It really sucks, OK?

Yes, I know President Obama is not going to personally read my letter. But call me naive, I do believe someone will read it, and then my letter will go into some big database of public opinion, and reports will be made, and I'll be a part of the system then, not just a bystander.

In my mind, I like to picture a little workshop of elves in the basement of the White House. Receiving my letter, a happy elf walks over to a big whiteboard and adds another checkmark to the "Affordable healthcare for all = good thing" column.

Oh, get ready to work, little elves. Pandora's box is open. I am going to wallpaper that White House with letters now! Viva democracy!

Woman's work

This week I get to experience the thrill of single motherhood. I say this with a voice full of irony.

My dear husband, worn out from his “wife management” duties (his self-described job), has gone off on a holiday to recharge. He will be climbing up Mt. Mulanje starting today, then on Thursday will drive with friends to the Mozambican coast for swimming, diving, and copious consumption of rum-based drinks served in coconut shells. It’s a hard life.

One of the conditions of his release was that he arrange for childcare for Milo while he was away. And he did. Sort of. He found a woman to come Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday, in the afternoons. Hmph. Not exactly what I meant by “find a nanny or else.” So poor Godfrey is watching Milo the rest of the time, while also taking care of the household chores.

To make it easier on Godfrey, I am doing as much of the housework as I can – that meant ironing for 3 hours over the weekend, doing the laundry, the diapers, the dishes…(Just like a common person!)

I know, I am not getting much sympathy from my fellow moms. Poor Gwyneth, she only has a part-time nanny and the housekeeper is so busy that she has to help out!

But it is tiring. I work hard all day, and even when Jorge is here, all the parenting falls to me once I get home. I appreciate that child care is a real job, so I understand why Jorge wants a break after 8 hours of being a full-time stay-at-home dad. But I work full-time too! And there’s no break for me. I work 24-7.

This seems to be the way for all the mothers I know, working or not. It always seems that the fathers get to take the evenings off, while the mothers never stop working. I read a study that backed this up once. It showed that working mothers, rather than getting to ease back on their household work, just added their office-work onto their existing workload. Whereas men spent about the same amount of time working and parenting whether or not they had a job outside the home.

Don’t get me wrong. I love my husband, and have nothing but appreciation for the hard work he does looking after Milo day after day. But I just wonder – when do I get my holiday?

Finally, Lex asked about the African reaction to Obama’s victory. I think that’s a whole other post, but the quick version is that people here were very happy with the result. The prevailing theme was that everyone was so impressed with American democracy, and McCain’s gracious concession of the election. The trend here is to dispute an election loss, loudly and vociferously, until you are at least granted a seat at the negotiating table. I think Africans took new hope in democracy this last week, and are particularly hopeful that Obama will institute favorable policies and aid toward Africa.

However, Jorge thinks many Malawians actually believe that Obama was born and raised in an African village, and that they are mostly just hopeful for their own presidential prospects.

If you want to see some photos and stories about how the expats in Malawi celebrated the election, check out my friends Emily and Amy’s blogs.

Why I voted for Obama

Normally, I think that what you do in the voting booth (or with your mail-in ballot) is your own personal business, but this year, I feel compelled to discuss my voting decisions.

So yes, I mailed in my ballot several weeks ago, and I voted for Barack Obama. Those of you who know me will not be at all surprised by this, but for those of you who may be on the fence, or are waffling about voting at all, here are my main reasons:

Health care. I am a cancer survivor, and it is near impossible to find health insurance, unless I work for an employer that provides it. We have searched for individual insurance in the past, and the best rate we were quoted was $3,000 dollars a month. I feel strongly that any health care reform needs to include protections for people with pre-existing conditions. Obama’s plan does; McCain’s doesn’t. McCain’s solution to the health care crisis? Another tax credit. Thanks, John. I can afford to be insured for one and a half months under your plan. And keep in mind that the people who are most crippled by rising healthcare premiums (which have hit most people a whole lot more than the piddly rise in oil prices) would not receive the full $5,000 credit he is proposing.

Taxes. I have had enough of wealthy people getting loads of deductions, credits, and tax cuts, while those who can least afford it bear such a high burden of taxes. And what’s so wrong with paying taxes anyway? Certainly, I want my government to be accountable and spend my tax money wisely, but I accept that in order to have a functioning government and a prosperous country, the government needs be sufficient revenue. I fully support Obama’s plan to raise taxes on the wealthiest Americans.

Character and qualifications. I have often complained that many Americans seem to vote for president as though they were voting for homecoming king. But I have to admit, I like Obama. He seems to be a sensible, rational man capable of gathering the most relevant information and making a reasoned, intelligent decision based on the facts.

I also like that he seems able to relate to the world that I grew up in so much better than most politicians I see. I get the sense that he understands the real problems that affect normal Americans, and won’t force us to become little pawns in an unrealistic, ideologically based world (think abstinence-only education, people).

I have had to hire many people over the years and what I look for most is not how many years of experience they have in doing specific tasks, but for their intelligence, motivation, educational qualifications, and personality. I want someone who will make the right calls, and work hard to achieve his goals. I believe Barack Obama is the best choice for America.